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November 1995, Volume 18, Issue 11 Beer Styles
by Bryan Gros
There has
been a lot of discussion on the Homebrew Digest lately
about beer styles. The questions basically involve
whether the description of a historical style, like IPA,
is an accurate description and, if a modernized version
of the style is used, isn't this fairly arbitrary? I
guess the more basic question is whether a rigid set of
guidelines should be used to judge beers or whether they
should be judged as being a great beer or not.
There is a
good consensus as to whether the styles should be trashed
or not. Styles, or guidelines, are necessary in judging.
If someone is a good brewer, then you can just give him
the styles to reproduce and see how close he or she gets.
Presumably, when people brew, they have an idea of what
they want to make. A judge can only help the brewer if
they know what the brewer was shooting for, and these
commonly used "goals" are the styles. Of course
the styles are only needed for competitions. A brewer can
brew great beers that might not fall into a particular
category. But to avoid trying to compare apples and
oranges, the styles give a common yardstick with which to
judge a group of beers.
As to where
the styles came from, that's a different story. Many
styles have a historic basis, which were defined by
geography, location relative to malt and hops, water
supply, etc. Some of the styles have died and been
resurrected. While a lot is known about the history of
some of the styles, the version published by the American
Homebrewers Association (AHA) is a modern version of the
style. After all, the malts and hops have all changed in
the last two hundred years as well as our understanding
of the brewing process. So naturally the beers have
changed as well. And the styles will further change as
they are interpreted by brewpubs in this country and
abroad.
Which brings
us to changing and inventing styles. If we accept that
rigid style guidelines are needed for competitions, they
should be difficult to change. But there does need to be
a process to change them when it is needed. This area is
one that the AHA should address, if their goal is to
serve their membership. As the national homebrewing body,
the AHA should maintain a list of styles as well as a
means to modify them. (They could also choose to pass
this responsibility off to the new judges organization
that will replace the BJCP). Homebrewers are always
inventive; many of us brew to make beers that are not
available in any store, but that is why many competitions
have a "specialty" category.
The Great
American Beer Festival seems to have a slightly different
set of styles. There are five substyles of American
Lager, perhaps so that the brewers who make the majority
of beers sold in this country can enter. Those don't even
include Dark Lager and American Ale/Lager (Cream Ale)!
There are no categories for the popular "red
ale" beers, and for some reason they were put in the
American Brown ale category rather than the American
Amber ale category. The winners in the Bock category were
all Doppelbocks; this result could be due to the vast
array of beers in America which have "bock" in
the name. So, while winning a medal is great for
advertising, it doesn't always tell the consumer what he
or she needs to know. After all, professional brewers
should be using style names to help their customers know
what to expect when they try their beers.
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